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Our table had a few issues with the lights, Aaron help us trouble shoot the problem and sent us new lights and a replacement controller box and now everything is working perfectly!
So glad this folds down, we always have parties after our shows so it is a big help being able to fit in the backseat of our drummers car.
It is our own personal light show. Watch Video Buy Now 4. Features you won't find on just any beer pong table. Customize your table.
Visit the gallery and send us your pictures at lightuptheparty. As seen on these awesome sites.
Julie P. The sensor readings are packed into a bit integer where a '1' means that a detection has been made and a '0' means that no object has been detected by the IR sensor.
The wiring is set up a little differently for this version of the beer pong table but it still has a good amount of info that I didn't address here in regards to controlling the 74HC There are four connections that must be made to the PCB to complete the ball washer.
The connections and their respective locations are in the diagram in photo 1 of this step. The ball washer IR sensors are connected to the 3rd 74HC multiplexer, meaning that every time we poll through all of the RGB pod sensors we actually get the readings for the ball washer sensors too.
We have to mask off the RGB pod sensor bits and move the ball washer sensor bits to bit locations 0 - 3. For example, if somebody drops a ball into the ball washer and doesn't grab it from the other side, it will fall back down into the ball washer when it shuts off.
This sets a flag in the system and will disable the ball washer until somebody resets the flag. This ensures that the ball washer doesn't run indefinitely if somebody doesn't grab the ball out of it or if it gets jammed up with more then one ball in it.
The way to reset the ball washer after it times out is to put your fingers into the entry and exit hole of the ball washer tripping each IR sensor.
Video Demonstration. Again, I would recommend using a motor that draws much less current than that to keep the heat of the transistors down.
The motors that are in the BOM are the ones I used and work perfect for this application. If you would like to add a water pump to your ball washers, no problem!
The Key infrared remote is used to adjust the modes, settings and operation of the interactive LED beer pong table.
Currently, I am just using a stock remote and I have mapped certain buttons to perform certain functions. In time, I would like to purchase some of these remotes with custom skins that have icons which pertain to the functionality of the selected button.
For now, users just have to use the chart above which has a diagram that shows what button is mapped to which operation. The IR remote controls the LCD display on the beer pong table which allows users to see what settings and modes are available to be changed.
As development continues, more options and features will be added to the menus but for the time being, the menu tree is pictured in the last photo of this step.
Each command from the remote is received by the MCU, packed into a bit integer and then compared against the default codes for the buttons on this remote.
Be aware that they are many identical versions of these remotes floating around, but the codes mapped to each button might be switched around.
Here is an Instructable which describes how these type of remotes function. As everything is open source with this project, the code can be changed to work with most remotes.
The 16x2 LCD display is used in conjunction with the key infrared remote. The display is used to allow the players to adjust certain settings on the beer pong table.
I have added 7 default menus that range from setting the brightness of the table to disabling the ball washers.
The 16x2 LCD display uses the very common HD controller which has a large amount of example code floating around the net.
Being a 16x2 LCD display, the visible range of 'x' on the screen is 0 - 15 and the visible range of the y parameter on the LCD is 0 - 1.
There are a couple of other functions for the LCD display but the majority that I use in the table are listed above. Take a look at photo 2 which shows the hierarchy of the menus.
Seeing as it uses the same bluetooth module that we use to program the table with the bootloader, you will connect up to it the same way Step 23 if you missed it.
Once you've paired up to the bluetooth module, open up a terminal program such as TeraTerm. Type "BT" without the quotes and hit enter.
You should receive an acknowledge from the Master PCB. This proves that you have a working link. Now send any of the commands that are listed in photo 1 to the Master PCB.
You can actually do all of this over a mobile phone too, although it is somewhat cumbersome. Now you can send commands to it from your phone just as you would on your PC.
This feature isn't super useful and it's more of a proof-of-concept at the moment. I plan to learn mobile programming or find someone who already knows it and design an easy to use app for this project.
The UART menu just shows that all of the hardware is already in place for when the time comes to design an app. Otherwise, if you modify a part, like a pixel on the LED grid, it may be changed in a few milliseconds on the next grid refresh.
By putting everything into standby, it halts all animation operations. I am still programming this part of the project and it is still in an alpha stage, meaning certain features of it are up and running but there is still a fair bit more to do.
I still have to implement the file structure and allow users to store table settings, which I will get time to do within the next two weeks.
When writing to this EEPROM chip you can only write 64 byte blocks at a time before you need to re-send the write command.
My EEPROM driver file already takes care of the page boundaries so that the user doesn't have to spend time dealing with them. I have simplified things as much as possible and made it so that the user only needs two commands to control the EEPROM.
The amount of data in bytes that is to be written is defined by the variable 'len'. If the operation is successful it will return a 0. Otherwise, it will return a non-zero integer which pertains to a specific error code.
The X5 board has a 5-pin connector JP5 which allows the beer pong table to detect frequencies around it. This allows the X5 to detect seven different frequencies quite well.
One can plug a 3. The only downside to using the electret mic is that the music needs to be quite loud for it to be able to pick it up.
As time goes on, I will upgrade the electret mic part of the circuit, but I know from experience that they usually pick up bass and low frequencies best.
Either way, one can modify the code to suit their needs and can choose which of the seven frequencies that they want the features on the table to react too.
There is working code for the VU meter, however, it is still a work-in-progress. There are a few simple VU animations right now but over time I will add more and clean up the code in the existing ones.
VU Meter Demonstration. This is in a testing phase and is not fully developed. This would mean no wiring up columns, rows or having to use the 50P breakout header.
Seems to good to be true, right? It's definitely true, but there is a slight downside to these LED strips. The 1-wire protocol used operates at a high frequency and doesn't leave much room for error.
On top of that, the LED strips are relatively expensive and need a high current power supply to provide enough amperage to all of the LEDs. I will continue to update this add-on in the coming days, but you can see a video of it in action below.
Here are the links to the datasheets for the major components in the beer pong table circuit as well as some links for other documentation.
There is plenty of information and projects available when searching Google for each of these components. If you are having trouble understanding a component, cross reference my code with the code of other projects to get a better understanding.
That's it for this Instructable! I will continually be developing this project, so check back now and again as I will keep everything updated.
Overall, I am very happy that I was able to condense the crazy amount of wiring in v1. Don't get me wrong, there is still a fair share of wires with this kit, but it's still way nicer than the original!
Thanks for checking out this Instructable and feel free to comment or PM me if you have any questions.
Question 3 months ago. Hello, It's a wonderfull, awesome project. I discovered this website when I researched some information to create an interactive LED table myself.
And I found your first version a beerpong LED table. It was very captivating. I posted a comment 5 mounth ago on your last version in order to have the datapackage and then try to understand in more detail the HW and SW management.
Nevertheless I never had answer. I retry today on this version your first interest me too! You said that all source file were available in a Zip in step 1 but it would seem that be not available at this day.
Please could you share again this datapackage. Question 1 year ago on Step 1. Really awesome project! I have a question, would it be possible to detect whether the ball falls in cup or not in order to automatically update the score?
As a backer for this project I just want everyone to know I have communicated with the maker and he has just now finished building the fully assembled tables that were ordered.
We are almost done building the table, but we have a few problems. And we hope someone could help us with this. I am interested in your complete assembled kit.
If your out of business: please close your site,. Reply 4 years ago. I also have emailed 3 times. Have you gotten a reply yet?
Trying to build this table before the summer ends. Are you still selling the kits? I noticed that all of your products are out of stock.
If you are no longer selling the kits, would you make the pcb cad files available so I can create the pcb's? I purchased the assembled kit.
This is fairly easy to get up and going, basic carpenter skills and being able to solder and follow instructions are a must.
If you are building from the unassembled kit, what PIC programmer do you need to get the initial bootloader programmed into the microcontroller.
Will any of these work? Is there not an actual schematic for the pcbs? I have found the diagrams but no actual schematics. By Regax Chexal Follow.
More by the author:. Piece 1 is the main connector with the crimp tabs sticking out of it, piece 2 is the middle part with grooves on the inside to hold the ribbon cable in place and piece 3 is the strain relief.
Sandwich the 8P ribbon cable between piece 1 and piece 2. Take note of which wire is connected to pin 1 on the connector Pin 1 is denoted by an arrow on top of the connector.
Once the cable is lined up between the two pieces, insert the connector into your crimping tool and apply steady pressure to the connector until the two pieces snap together.
Fold the cable down the back of the connector, pulling it tight. Insert piece 3 into piece 2 and snap them together with your thumb.
This will create a strain relief for the connector. Now repeat the exact same process for the connector on the other end of the cable, making sure that pin 1 connects to the same wire on each connector.
You need the following pieces to make the jig: 2x - There are 3 things to look out for when assembling the ballwashers: Make sure that the fan motor inside of the T-coupler can spin freely.
If you assembled the connectors for your motor and it's spinning the wrong way, pop the crimp tabs out of the connector and switch the pins.
This will reverse the direction of the motor and solve your problem make sure to have the propeller installed the right way too.
When you install the infrared sensors, it is crucial that they have a clear opening into the coupler. They are optical sensors so if anything is blocking them they may not detect a ball dropped in the air baths.
Now we're ready to start hooking everything up! Download View in 3D. Open up "Bootloader. I have it set to the PICKit 3 by default.
The HC bluetooth module may begin blinking but the RGB pods or any other features shouldn't turn on. This means that we are in bootloader mode. The default password for pairing is "" without the quotation marks.
I originally was using the default windows metro app Windows 8. Any bluetooth manager should work though, including the default manager included with Windows.
Take note of the COM port number. With the main zip file extracted, navigate to the "Bootloader" folder and open up "winbootldr.
Click on the one that is paired with your bluetooth module. Together, they created this brain child. Pick from a variety of long lasting LEDs to accent your beer pong table!
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